Budapest: Secrets, Shadows, and the Spirit of the Danube

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Budapest, the capital of Hungary, is a city where history, architecture, and vibrant modern life come together beautifully. We visited in November, when the crisp autumn air set the stage for a winter wonderland filled with the sights, sounds, and smells of the festive season.

The Christmas markets were out in full force, offering mulled wine, chimney cake, artisanal crafts, and plenty of holiday cheer. Our stay at the Hotel Prestige, a brilliant boutique hotel right in the heart of the city, made our experience even more memorable. The hotel, with its elegant interiors and excellent location, made it easy to explore Budapest on foot. On top of that, because it was Elliot’s birthday, we were pleasantly surprised to find a thoughtful card and a bottle of wine waiting for us in our room.

Over the course of five days, we explored many of Budapest’s iconic attractions, dined at delicious restaurants, and even took a day trip to Vienna. Here’s a rundown of our adventures in this stunning city.

Hotel Prestige: The Perfect Base for Exploration

Hotel Prestige is located just a short walk from iconic landmarks like St. Stephen’s Basilica and the Chain Bridge, making it the perfect base for our exploration of Budapest. The hotel itself has a contemporary yet cozy feel, and the staff went out of their way to make us feel welcome. The thoughtful gesture of a birthday card and a bottle of wine was just the kind of personal touch that made our stay feel special. If you’re looking for a stylish yet comfortable place to stay in Budapest, this hotel is highly recommended.

Exploring Budapest’s Historic Attractions

One of the first places we visited was Buda Castle, an impressive hilltop fortress that has played a key role in Budapest’s history. The castle, part of the city’s UNESCO World Heritage site, offers not just historic buildings but also stunning views of the Danube and Pest across the river. The castle grounds are filled with museums and galleries, and we spent time exploring the courtyards and the National Gallery, which houses works by Hungarian artists. The Labyrinth beneath the castle, an underground maze of tunnels, was a highlight. With its eerie atmosphere and narrow passageways, it’s a fun and unique way to explore Budapest’s past and should be a must see as long as you aren’t too scared of the dark/small spaces!

Nearby, we made our way to Fisherman’s Bastion, a neo-Romanesque terrace that offers some of the most picturesque views of the city. The view across the Danube to the Parliament Building and Pest was breathtaking, especially with the autumn colors of the trees in the distance. The Bastion’s fairytale-like towers are perfect for photo opportunities, and we lingered for quite some time just soaking in the beauty.

Another highlight was the Citadella, a historic fortress perched atop Gellért Hill. The climb up is a bit steep, but the panoramic views of the city are well worth the effort. From here, you can see the sprawling city, the Danube, the Chain Bridge, and Buda Castle—truly one of the best viewpoints in Budapest.

Heroes Square, a grand monument dedicated to Hungary’s historical leaders, was another spot we visited. The square, with its large statues and the Millennium Memorial at its center, is an important symbol of Hungarian identity and national pride – though there’s not much to “do” so it is more of a looking brief.

Notable Sites of Reflection

Shoes on the Danube Bank is one of the most moving memorials in Budapest. Situated along the Danube Promenade, this installation consists of 60 pairs of cast-iron shoes, symbolizing the Jewish victims who were murdered during the Holocaust and then thrown into the river. It’s a poignant reminder of Budapest’s turbulent history during World War II.

We also visited the Synagogue, one of the largest in Europe, located in the Jewish Quarter. The Great Synagogue is an architectural marvel, and it’s rich in history. The synagogue’s peaceful garden and the Holocaust Memorial within the grounds serve as a solemn space for reflection. The surrounding Jewish Quarter is a fascinating area to explore, filled with historical sites, vibrant street art, and, of course, the famous ruin bars.

The Danube at Night: A Cruise to Remember

One of our most magical experiences in Budapest was taking a night cruise on the Danube. Seeing the city illuminated after dark was spectacular. The Parliament Building was especially striking, its gothic façade bathed in golden light. The Chain Bridge looked magnificent, and the entire waterfront glowed against the night sky. If you’re visiting Budapest, a night cruise is a must—it’s one of the best ways to take in the city’s beauty from a different perspective and really added something that you can’t get everywhere.

Thermal Baths: A Relaxing Tradition

On our second day, we visited Széchenyi Thermal Bath, one of Budapest’s most famous baths. It was a chilly November day, so the warm thermal waters felt like a real luxury. The outdoor pools were heated, and soaking in the steamy water while the cold air chiled your hair and face was a surreal experience. Széchenyi also hosts evening events, including rave parties with light shows and a party atmosphere – Elliot has been before – but we opted for the more peaceful daytime visit on this trip! The stunning architecture of the bathhouse, with its yellow façade and grand neoclassical columns, is as much a part of the experience as the relaxing waters and inside there are a range of saunas, steam rooms and plunge pools – budget a couple of hours!

A Visit to the Basilica

St. Stephen’s Basilica is another must-see landmark. It’s one of the largest churches in Hungary and a prime example of neoclassical architecture. We loved the ornate interior, which is filled with mosaics and marble, but we do seem to be quite “churchy” people when we’re away! If you’re feeling adventurous, you can climb to the top of the dome for a panoramic view of the city—one of the best views of Budapest’s skyline.

The Christmas Markets

One of the most delightful surprises during our late November visit was the array of Christmas markets dotted throughout the city. We visited the Central Market Hall, where the lower level is packed with traditional Hungarian foods and souvenirs, and the upper level featured a festive projection show on the building’s façade. The Christmas lights and decorations created a cozy, holiday ambiance, and we spent a lot of time wandering through the stalls, sipping mulled wine, and picking up unique gifts. Of course, there is also a lot of “tat” – but it’s part of the fun no!?

The Christmas market at Vörösmarty Square was another one that is worth a mention – with festive food, crafts, and the twinkling lights creating a joyful atmosphere. Whether you’re looking for handmade ornaments or indulging in sweet treats like chimney cake, Budapest’s markets are a must-visit during the winter season.

Dining and Drinking in Budapest

No trip to Budapest would be complete without sampling its rich culinary scene. We ate and drank our way through some excellent spots, starting with Mazel Tov, a Middle Eastern restaurant located in the lively Jewish Quarter. The interior, which resembles a lush garden, is a perfect setting for enjoying flavorful dishes in a relaxed atmosphere.

Szimpla Kert, one of the city’s famous ruin bars, was another fun spot. These bars are located in abandoned buildings, often featuring mismatched furniture, quirky décor, and live music. Szimpla Kert is one of the most well-known, and we enjoyed grabbing a drink here in the eclectic space. The ruin bars are an iconic part of Budapest’s nightlife scene, combining art, history, and great vibes. Be prepared though when go in, particularly in the evening- as these do maintain quite a “ruined” aesthetic and we heard some American tourists who were quite surprised at how rough and ready bits were, including a lot of graffiti.

If that’s not your vibe, we also enjoyed a memorable dinner at Prime Steak and Wine, where we indulged in some of the best steaks we’ve ever had. The restaurant boasts excellent service, a refined atmosphere, and a wine list to match.

For Elliot’s birthday, we dined at HOPPÁ! Bistro, a Michelin Guide-recommended contemporary restaurant. Located on Október Street, the bistro stood out for its sleek design and modern presentation. The food was expertly crafted, with flavors that balanced innovation and tradition, making it the perfect place for a special celebration. Worth a trip if you have an occasion whilst you’re in Budapest.

Finally, Porc and Prezli, located near St. Stephen’s Basilica, served up classic Hungarian dishes. The traditional flavors and cozy atmosphere made it a great choice for a hearty meal after a day of sightseeing. It took a bit of finding but perseverance paid off!

A Quick Day Trip to Vienna

On our third day, we took the train to Vienna for a day trip. While we won’t go into too much detail here (stay tuned for a separate post on Vienna), it was an easy and worthwhile journey. The cultural and historical richness of Vienna provided a fascinating contrast to Budapest’s more laid-back charm.

Final Thoughts

In just five days, Budapest gave us a perfect blend of culture, history, food, and relaxation. Whether we were soaking in the views from Fisherman’s Bastion, exploring the Buda Castle, relaxing at the Széchenyi Thermal Bath, or wandering through the Christmas markets, there was always something new to discover. Budapest is a city that invites you to slow down, take in the sights, and savor every moment. If you’re considering a trip to this enchanting city, don’t hesitate—it’s a place that will stay with you long after you’ve gone.

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We love travel and have visited more than 40 countries between us. Most of our trips factor in our jobs – we both have 9-5s – though we’ve also been on longer luxury trips, cruises and adventure trips. Here we’re sharing our experiences and inspiration! Find out more about us below, or get inspired by taking a look round! Enjoy!