Belfast, with its vibrant history, striking murals, and contemporary art, surprised us in all the best ways. We spent a few days immersing ourselves in this fascinating city, discovering its mix of history, culture, and nightlife. From the Titanic Museum to hidden gems like the Crown Bar, and even a few unexpected adventures (like getting swept up in an Orangemen march), Belfast definitely didn’t disappoint.
Here’s a look at the highlights of our time in this lively and often overlooked gem of a city.
Where We Stayed: Ramada by Wyndham Belfast
We stayed at the Ramada by Wyndham during our time in Belfast, a solid choice that gave us easy access to the city center. The hotel itself was comfortable, modern, and well-located, with great transport links. We were able to walk or take short bus rides to pretty much everything we wanted to see in Belfast, making it a good base for our explorations.
Shankill Road and the Murals
Belfast’s history is visible on its walls, especially on the famous Shankill Road. The murals here tell the story of the city’s troubled past, reflecting the political and religious tensions that shaped the region. From the striking and powerful images depicting the conflict, to memorial murals, walking down Shankill Road felt like stepping back in time. These murals aren’t just art—they’re the city’s history told in vibrant colors and bold statements.
We weren’t expecting to get caught up in an Orangemen’s march, but it just so happened that we were in the area during one. The march, though intense and steeped in tradition, was peaceful as it wound its way through the streets, adding an extra layer of complexity to the experience.
The Big Fish
The Big Fish, or Salmon of Knowledge, is one of Belfast’s most iconic public art installations, located on the banks of the River Lagan. Created by artist John Kindness in 1999, this striking 10-metre-long sculpture celebrates the city’s maritime heritage and history. Its shimmering mosaic tiles are a patchwork of stories, photographs, and newspaper articles that chronicle Belfast’s rich past, from its industrial achievements to its folklore. The sculpture symbolises the wisdom and knowledge that salmon are believed to carry in Irish mythology. A visit to The Big Fish offers a unique blend of art and history, making it a must-see landmark in Belfast’s bustling waterfront area. It’s also a popular spot for visitors to snap photos and take in the surrounding views of the city.
Dreamachine: A Modern Art Experience
Belfast was also home to one of the highlights of our trip—the Dreamachine, part of the larger Unboxed cultural event. This immersive experience used lights and sound to transport you to different states of consciousness. It was an incredibly unique art installation, and though we weren’t sure what to expect, it ended up being one of the most memorable things we did in the city.
Titanic Belfast: A Journey into History
No visit to Belfast would be complete without spending some time at the Titanic Belfast Museum. We’ve all heard of the infamous ship, but this interactive museum brings the story to life in such a compelling way. Set in an eye-catching building shaped like the bow of the ship, the museum takes you through the history of the Titanic, from its construction in the city’s Harland and Wolff shipyard to its tragic sinking.
The exhibits were well-curated and informative, with a mix of hands-on experiences, historical artifacts, and poignant memorials to those lost. We both left feeling far more connected to the ship’s story than we ever anticipated. SoundYard is nearby and is an outdoor art installation inspired by the sounds of Belfast’s shipyards. It is located on Queen’s Quay close to the Odyssey and Abercorn Marina.
The Cathedral Quarter: Pubs, Art, and the Thirsty Goat
After all the history, we were ready to soak up some of Belfast’s modern culture, and the Cathedral Quarter was the perfect place to do so. This area of the city is bursting with life—art galleries, street art, and vibrant pubs. The Crown Bar, one of Belfast’s most iconic spots, was a must-visit for us. Dating back to the 1800s, this Victorian-era pub is a beautiful relic, with intricate tiled floors, stained glass windows, and cozy booths. It’s the perfect spot for a pint of Guinness, and we were glad to experience its old-world charm.
We spent most of the evening in the Thirsty Goat, a lively pub with great food and craft beers and a decent sized outside area where a live band was playing Irish folk-style musix – think Christy Moore. It felt like the heartbeat of the city—laid-back yet full of energy. There is also a glass case, with a stuffed goat in it. Magnificent stuff.
Umbrella Street
As we wandered through Belfast’s lively Cathedral Quarter, we stumbled across one of the city’s most enchanting surprises – Umbrella Street. Tucked away in Commercial Court, this cobblestoned alley is transformed into a kaleidoscope of colour thanks to a canopy of bright, suspended umbrellas. It felt like stepping into a scene from a whimsical movie, where the umbrellas danced above us in the breeze, casting playful shadows on the street below.
The atmosphere was electric, with the vibrant colours perfectly complementing the historic charm of the surrounding pubs and street art. Naturally, we couldn’t resist snapping a few photos – it’s one of those spots where every angle feels Instagram-worthy. The umbrellas were part of the area’s artistic vibe, often installed to coincide with festivals or events, bringing a touch of magic to Belfast’s streetscape. As we soaked it all in, we found ourselves lingering, sipping coffee at a nearby café, and simply enjoying the creativity and charm of this little Belfast gem. If you’re visiting, make sure you add this to your list – it’s impossible not to smile when you’re standing under a canopy of colour!
The Crumlin Road Gaol: A Step into Belfast’s Dark History
While we were in Belfast, we also decided to visit Crumlin Road Gaol, a former prison that offers an eye-opening and somber insight into Belfast’s troubled past. The Crumlin Road Gaol, which closed as a functioning prison in 1996, housed many political prisoners during the period of The Troubles, and it’s an essential stop if you want to understand the deep complexities of Northern Ireland’s history.
The guided tour was incredibly informative, walking us through the grim cells, the execution chamber, and the eerie corridors. The guide shared stories of those who were imprisoned here, some of whom were involved in political conflicts. Walking through the cellblocks, especially the isolation cells, made the experience incredibly personal, offering a glimpse into the human cost of the political and sectarian violence that marked this part of Belfast’s history. It’s a sobering, yet deeply moving, experience, and we left feeling more connected to the city’s complex past.
St. Anne’s Cathedral
St. Anne’s Cathedral is known for housing the largest Gaelic cross in the world. The cathedral’s majestic interior is a testament to Belfast’s spiritual and architectural history. Even if you’re not into religious sites, the cathedral is worth a visit for its beautiful architecture and peaceful vibe.
A Late-Night Surprise: Michelin-Star McDonald’s!
After all the exploring, we had planned to have a nice sit-down dinner, but, as often happens when you’re on holiday, plans went awry. We got so caught up in the live folk music at the Thirsty Goat that we ended up losing track of time—and our appetite for anything fancy. At midnight, we found ourselves, slightly tipsy from pints and immersed in the music, walking to the closest place we could find open… a McDonald’s.
This is not our usual vibe whilst travelling and we really do try and eat local whereever we go, and so it’s taken on the name of “Michelin-star McDonald’s” whenever we mentioned it now. Sitting in the glow of the late-night neon lights, we devoured our McChicken sandwiches and fries with the satisfaction only a night of folk music and terrible junk food can provide. After all, it was the perfect end to a day packed with culture, history, and some delightful surprises.
Final Thoughts
Belfast was a city that constantly kept us on our toes—rich in history, yet bursting with modern art, music, and energy. Whether we were lost in the stories of its murals or immersed in the heart of its vibrant nightlife, the city offered something new around every corner.
Our recommendations?
• Take a moment to visit Shankill Road and the murals—it’s an essential part of Belfast’s identity.
• Don’t miss the Titanic Belfast Museum for a deep dive into history. Go to Soundyard which is nearby.
• The Crumlin Road Gaol is a must-visit to understand Belfast’s more recent, complex history.
• The Crown Bar is a must for an authentic Belfast pub experience. The Thirsty Goat is also worth a visit, though there are probably a range of other pubs doing music in the summer.
• The Cathedral Quarter is the perfect place to experience the city’s creative pulse.
We’d definitely go back to Belfast. It’s a city full of surprises, and it left us with memories we’ll carry for years to come. If you get the chance, go—there’s so much to see, do, and experience in this incredible city.
