If you’re wandering the streets of Bologna, you may notice the Sanctuary of St. Luke (Santuario di San Luca) sitting majestically atop the hill. With its stunning views, rich history, and the grand Portico di San Luca, the sanctuary is more than just a religious site—it’s a must-see for anyone visiting Bologna. Our visit to San Luca was a surprisingly worthwhile experience, which showed us more of the city and rewarded us with some great views! If you’re planning a trip, let us walk you through what made it so special (and a little different from the usual pilgrimage!).
Skip to…
A Little History Before the Adventure
The Sanctuary of St. Luke is dedicated to the Madonna di San Luca, a revered icon thought to have been painted by St. Luke himself. According to legend, this miraculous image was brought to Bologna in the 12th century, and ever since, it has been a symbol of faith for locals, especially in times of hardship. Over the centuries, the sanctuary has evolved into one of the city’s most iconic landmarks, and it’s still a place of pilgrimage for many.
But what really caught our attention (besides the breathtaking views) is the Portico di San Luca, the covered walkway leading up to the sanctuary. Stretching over 3.8 kilometers and containing 666 arches (yes, you read that right!), this portico is the longest of its kind in the world. It’s an awe-inspiring combination of architecture, art, and a spiritual journey all in one and a yearly procession from the Cathedral of San Pietro in the centre of Bologna to the Sanctuary goes along this path.
The porticos of Bologna were declared UNESCO world heritage sites in 2021.
Taking the Scenic Route: The Tourist Train to the Top
Rather than walking up the steep hill to the sanctuary (which, don’t get us wrong, is totally doable for the more adventurous and fitter among us), we opted for something a little more relaxed: the tourist train!
Starting from Piazza Maggiore (the heart of Bologna’s historic center), we hopped onto the little train that would take us most of the way up to the top. It’s a fun and easy way to get a glimpse of the city as you travel toward the sanctuary without breaking a sweat. The train ride takes you through the charming streets, offering views of Bologna’s rooftops, ancient walls, and green spaces. It’s a nice way to ease into the experience, especially if you’re short on time but don’t want to miss out on the journey itself.
Once we reached the top, we were right at the foot of the spectacular church, with its domed roof and sweeping views of Bologna below.
Sanctuary of San Luca
Tradition holds that in the 12th century, a pilgrim from the Byzantine Empire brought an icon of the Virgin Mary from the Temple of Saint Sophia in Constantinople to Bologna. In 1160, the Bishop of Bologna, Gerardo Grassi, assigned the icon to a small hermitage-chapel on a hill, which was cared for by two holy women, Azzolina and Beatrice Guezi. Construction of a larger church began in 1193. By 1294, friars from the Dominican monastery of Ronzano took over the site, and the order remained there until the Napoleonic suppression in 1799.
The current church was built in 1723, based on the designs of Carlo Francesco Dotti. His son, Giovanni Giacomo Dotti, completed the lateral external tribunes following his father’s plans. Inside, the centrally planned sanctuary is adorned with works by several artists: Domenico Pestrini, Donato Creti (in the second chapel on the right), Guido Reni (the Assumption in the third altar on the right), Giuseppe Maria Mazza (in the Chapel of St. Anthony of Padua), Vittorio Bigari (frescoes), and Guercino (in the sacristy). The stuccowork is by A. Borelli and G. Calegari, and the statues are by Angelo Piò.
Walking Down: The Archways and the Spiritual Path
After taking in the peaceful atmosphere of the sanctuary, we decided to walk back down – this was a great idea, partly for the views, but partly because While walking through the Portico di San Luca you can’t help but feel a connection to the history of this place and the people who’ve done the walk before you, and also the people doing it with you – lots of nods and smiles! The archways cover the whole walk so it would be doable if it were raining.
As you walk, you’ll notice the change in the atmosphere. The closer you get to Bologna, the more you feel the bustling energy of the city.
The walk itself is relatively easy, though you’ll be descending the hill (which means good shoes are handy – but it is paved / tiled so is quite a safe walk.
The path is framed by trees and offers stunning views of Bologna, with the Two Towers (Le Due Torri) and the Apennine Mountains visible in the distance. The entire journey is about 45 minutes, and it’s a beautiful, peaceful way to reflect and take in the sights.
Reaching the Heart of Bologna
Once we made it back down to Piazza di Porta Saragozza, we were greeted by the vibrant city life of Bologna. It felt like a beautiful contrast: we’d just walked back from a centuries-old religious site, surrounded by the quiet hum of nature and history, and now we were back in the lively, cosmopolitan streets of Bologna.
Whether you’re religious or just visiting for the beauty of it, the walk to and from the sanctuary is a truly unique experience. And for us, taking the train up and walking down was the perfect mix of adventure and relaxation.
Final Thoughts: The Best of Both Worlds
If you’re looking for a memorable experience in Bologna, a visit to the Sanctuary of San Luca is a must. The Portico di San Luca offers a beautiful passage through time and space. Whether you walk the whole way up, take the tourist train, or do a little of both, it’s an experience that will stay with you long after you’ve left Bologna.
The Sanctuary of St. Luke is not just about reaching the top—it’s about appreciating the journey itself. So, whether you’re a history lover, a spiritual seeker, or just someone who loves a good view, this pilgrimage will definitely be one of the highlights of your trip to Bologna.
